Last weekend my friend D and I completed the 20th annual Tour Of Lakes, a ride organized by the Paul Bunyan Cyclists, a cycling club based in the Brainerd area.
I’d never participated in a ride like this before, and I’d never been to Brainerd, so I had no idea what to expect. Would it be hilly or flat? Would the riders be genial or would they be a bunch of speed-obsessed racers? Even the route was a mystery — I’d emailed the organizers about it only to be told that I’d find out on the day of the ride.
Heading into the weekend the only things I knew were that I could complete a 65-mile ride, and that I could do so in the time allotted to us by the ride organizers, who strongly suggested that everyone finish their ride by 3pm.
And both of those assumptions were nearly proved wrong.
We got into Brainerd the night before the ride and set out to see the town and find some dinner. First, it turns out we weren’t even in Brainerd, but neighboring Baxter. Second, it is currently impossible to reach Brainerd’s downtown, as the entire road has been removed for reconstruction.
We spotted a non-desrcript cafe with a few promising neon beer signs — Rogue Brewery and Fat Tire. Surely this place had to be good.
We’d stumbled across what must be the most hippie/hipster restaurant in Brainerd, the E Squared Cafe. Perfect! We tanked up on beer and vegetarian entrees, eavesdropping on the bizarre discussions of local politics taking place one table over.
The next morning we tried to hit the road as early as possible. In order to finish by the 3pm deadline, I wanted us to start the ride by 7am. That would give us 8 hours — allowing us a leisurely pace of under 10 mph.
After registration and preparation, we got on the road closer to 7:30. Still plenty of time. And when we reached the first rest stop, after about 10 miles, we were way ahead of schedule. The ride had been flat, fast and relaxing. We were holding a comfortable pace of 15 mph. Hell, at this rate we’d be done by noon!

Here we're at the midpoint of the long loop.
The Paul Bunyan Cyclists had promised good food at the rest stops, and they certainly delivered. Our first stop featured breakfast burritos, a huge array of fruits and boxes of pastries. We lingered just long enough to sample the variety then headed back out.
This is when we found out that the first 10 miles were a ruse. The route would not be all flat and relaxing. It would be hilly and challenging. On a beautiful, narrow road we began to encounter the rolling hills that we’d be riding most of the rest of the day. I called these the “Roller Coaster” hills, because I could frequently get enough momentum on the descent to allow me to coast up to the top of the next hill. Hooray for all my extra mass!
On this road we were passed by a small group of folks, one of whom gave me some polite ribbing about all the bags on my bike. In addition to my normal saddle bag and handlebar bag I was also carrying a single Ortlieb pannier as a backup, should the predicted rain come pouring down.
I said something about wanting to carry everything I needed, to which the guy responded that I was “a Boy Scout.” Then one of the other riders said “He’s like a dinosaur!” A dinosaur? I’m still not sure if that was meant as a compliment or not. Whatever.
We rolled onwards and the hills got bigger. No more coasting to the top. When the long route split off from the shorter 35-mile route the hills increased in size. Our second rest stop was at Kelly’s bar, where the volunteers were serving up sloppy joes and veggie chili. These did not appeal to me or D, so after a short break we prepared to head out.
Before we left a pair of women complimented our bikes. One of them was particularly in love with every aspect of our rides. The bags, the leather saddles, the fenders, etc. Yet her bike (an aluminum Trek road bike) lacked everything she loved about our bikes. It was odd. Like a kid that really likes reading but who spends all his time playing Xbox so as to fit in with his friends. Or maybe she just couldn’t afford another bike. I dunno.

Ridge Road
The northern loop of the long route was beautiful. We got off the county highway and rode on lakeside residential roads. For a while we were so secluded that I was sure we’d taken a wrong turn. A brief patch of loose gravel road reinforced the seclusion. Coming back from the northern tip of the ride the road straightened and flattened out, allowing me to cruise along at a quick 22 mph pace, exploring gears that I didn’t even know my bike had.
When we got back to Kelly’s the hills had taken their toll on us and we stopped for lunch. The chili still didn’t look good, so we went in the bar and rested with a beer and greasy bar food.
By this point we were about five hours into the ride and about two-thirds of the way through the route. A mere 20 miles to go, with three hours until the ride deadline. Simple, I thought.
But those hills, those damn hills. More and more frequently I found myself in my smallest gear, climbing a hill at 5 or 6 mph. And each big climb was followed by a water break. We worked our way to the third rest stop which promised pasta.
It was at the third stop that I noticed our time was getting short. We’d have to hold a good pace to make it to the end by 3. Just to add to the difficulty, the route was about 4 miles longer than advertised. 69 miles, not 65. We didn’t linger over our pasta.
About the only things I remember from this last stretch are grinding through a tough headwind and the arrival of the promised rain. I also remember how fabulous it was to turn out of the headwind and realize that we had a smooth, hill-less 3 miles between us and the finish.
With the rain strengthening, we crossed the finish line at 2:59. 1 minute ahead of the goal! Huddling under a tent we ate our celebratory root beer floats in our official Tour Of Lakes mugs and got our bikes ready for the drive home. In all the rush to get somewhere dry, we left our mugs behind. Oh well.
At 69.33 miles, the ride was slightly shorter than my ride around Lake Minnetonka. But it was so much more difficult. D called it a “Hilly Century”, as if 70 hilly miles is equivalent to 100 miles on flat ground. It’s an exaggeration, but there’s no doubt that I felt like I’d rode much farther than 70 miles.
Without the 3pm deadline, we could have spent some more time relaxing and recuperating at the rest stops. But, all in all, I’m glad we had the deadline to shoot for. It forced us to push ourselves a bit harder than we would have, turning our ride from a leisurely jaunt to a goal accomplished — complete with all the attendant pride and satisfaction.